Y U NO POST BLOG?
The reasons why I’ve been absent as of late range from a preocupation with writing and other pursuits to my camera cable being lost for the past week. As it turns out, the cable was tucked way down in my laptop bag, under a fold caused by the liner. And the other pursuits? Ongoing, but temporarily abated. The truth of the matter is if my time is at a premium and I have to chose between working on this blog or pursuing the hobby which this blog is ultimately about, the blog will lose nine times out of ten. I challenge anyone to say they’d feel differently.
It’s been a busy month (or so) since the last post. Part of that is because I’ve just come off a three week stint where there was a railway show every Saturday. The last two shows – Narrow Gauge Madness and the Great British Train Show, respectively – are my favourites but each is also a two hour drive away. Nevertheless, I’ve been hard at work both in the workshop and out in the garden.
Ruby Update
I find it interesting how much my work ethic has changed in the last few years. I’ve gone from being completely impatient and and intollerant of drawn out procedures to favouring doing something right, even if it takes it’s sweet time. This mindset is arguably an improvement, my work certainly seems to reflect that.
At Narrow Gauge Madness this year I met up with representitives of the Canadian 16mm movement and got invited to their invitational steam up this June. One of the member’s has a very impressive Ruby and given these two factors I’ve felt compelled to do some work on my own Ruby. After a few weeks of study I decided on two simple modifications to make my Ruby look different from the stock model…
Ruby’s Tender
The most drastic change to Ruby’s appearance doesn’t actually have anything to do with the locomotive itself. In the late Peter Jones’ book Building Small Steam Locomotives, he describes the conversion of a Ruby to an open cab industrial locomotive. It’s a fascinating and inspiring read, but what caught my eye the most is at the end of the chapter when his heavily modified Ruby is posed with a scratch built tender, designed to evoke a backshop, cobbled-together feel.
Drawing on this inspiration I offered up a Hartland four wheel open wagon to the razor saw to build a similar tender for my loco. The wagon in question had already been set aside to serve as a tender for an LGB Toytrain I have yet to do anything with, as a result the coupler was already missing from one end and replaced with a roughly rounded piece of wood to serve as a dumb buffer. An eye hook had also been driven into the underside of the old coupler mount with a length of chain secured to it. This was repositioned to the top of the buffer with the intent to secure the other end of the chain to Ruby’s back coupler.
The most obvious modification to the wagon inolved using the aforementioned razor saw to cut away the forward (locomotive facing) wall. The wall was retained and moved half way into the wagon body (or as close as I could manage). The repositioned wall was reinforced (as the cutting had left it shorter) and cemented in place.
Next a piece of styrene was cut to fill the back half of the wagon and cemented in place also with heavy reinforcement. Great care was taken to make sure it was level with the top of the wagon body as this is
intended to be the top of the tender’s water tank. A small wood filling was afixed in the center then the entire wagon – body and chassis – was given four or five coats of Krylon black to finish it off.
Once dried, the parts were reassembled with the wheels swapped out for a 22mm set then it was “mated” to Ruby. Next Sumble I’ll have to offer up a toast to my Grandfather for the massive and ecelctic assortment of screws and nuts he collected over the years. Sure enough, after half an hour routing through the little drawers I found a screw that fit in Ruby’s coupler hole and a matching nut. The tender is now semi-permanently attached to Ruby and can be removed just by unscrewing said nut.
This isn’t an ideal arrangement as after every run I routinely tip Ruby over to empty the boiler and the tender gets in the way while the aforementioned coupler rig can be too fiddly to remove on the fly. My next project, therefore will be a redesign. The back-of-an-envelope idea I have to replace it is to take a cue from the smaller scales and replace the chain with a drawbar made of brass, screwed into Ruby’s coupler as the chain currently is. On the tender I will remove the eye hook and instead put a brass rod in the old coupler mount which will mate up with a hole drilled in the other end of the draw bar. My plans to further refine and finish the tender include adding a load of fuel – either coal or wood, I haven’t decided yet – and add a tool rack where I can safely add a shovel and axe I have already painted for that purpose.
Running Boards (A Work In Progress)
Note: Sadly, I don’t have any decent pictures of this process at this time. Photos to follow.
The second change to Ruby is the removal of the side tanks in favour of running boards. I imagine in the fictional history of the locomotive that the tanks were removed at the same time the tender was added. Both were probably the result of damage to the tanks; from a collision or derailment, perhaps. The running boards are made of 1/16 brass plate and were actually cut to size quite some time ago. They remained in that state for a year or so before I remembered their existence. The next step was to round off the forward, outboard corners purely for aesthetic reasons. The two pieces were taped together with great care made to make sure both were even. Next a quarter was used as a template for the curve, marked out with a permanent marker.
To cut the curve I first mounted the fixture in the vise (protected with wood on each side so as not to mark the brass). The first cuts were made with a cutting desk in a dremel tool – this was a rough cut to form the basic shape but to be safe I kept a few millimeters away from the desired final profile. Once the curve was roughed off, a hand file and a grinding bit in the same Dremel tool were used to gradually reduce the curve to the desired contour. Even though the tool skipped a few times in cutting and grinding, I’m very pleased with the end result.
The next step is to mount the boards to the brackets which formerly kept the side tanks in place. This where I’ve left off as I’ve run into a little snag. The initial plan was to silver solder some nuts in place on the underside of the boards. The nuts in question are so small however (hurr!) that they won’t stay in place when I try to solder them; either the turbulence from the torch nudges them slowly away or they start sliding once the flux gets runny. I still haven’t given up on this idea, but plan B is to simply drill and tap the boards themselves. Since I plan on covering them with wood strips this shouldn’t be any more noticeable.








